Ulyana Sergeenko Fall Winter 2017 Couture Collection

Amid several mood-board mosaics featuring stills from spy thrillers and film noir classics, pictures of folks moving into the Soviet Union postwar, a vintage Vogue cover or several, and Michael Jackson’s iconic glove was a picture of Ulyana Sergeenko’s grandmother taken 64 years ago in eastern Kazakhstan. With her close-cropped shelf of bangs and strict bright white collar against that which was likely a black dress, her look authorized as rather timeless. But it also reinforced these haute couture selections invariably connect back again to something personal, regardless of the narrative. This one just so been a darker departure, with Sergeenko and business spouse Frol Burimskiy assembling a glam squad of American femme fatales and Soviet gangsters as well.
Without doubt the fur-collared barrel coat accessorized with gloves and a durable doctor’s bag made a cinematic primary impression. And the good sense that this lineup might have been a dress rehearsal for some John Huston remake continued through to the paler typical Hollywood dresses even more on. But backstage, Burimskiy repeatedly designated the way the intimidating silhouettes had been often countered with items of irreverence: meets punctuated with pistol and lace handkerchiefs; the ultra-luxe gray fur coat accented with little jazz instruments in gunmetal embroidery; consistent bow incrustations; and a minaudière simply because a sculpted rose. What ensured these couture portions transcended costume had been the deliberate workmanship and labor-intensive detailing decisions. A soft floral pattern that seemed painted was basically dyed mesh appliqués, while glossy panels on a pencil skirt had been stamped and lacquered household leather. Suit striping wasn’t limited by chalk-it was also alternating panels of tone-on-tone fur.