Analucia McGorty is the costume designer for one of the most intriguing television shows. pose. The multi-award-winning music series follows the development of LGBTQ + ball culture in New York City in the 80s and 90s, with some talented characters at the center of the scene. McGorty's productive designs for poseIn season three, she recently received an Emmy nomination for 2020 for Outstanding Costumes – and she spoke to POPSUGAR about how ball culture is transforming the fashion industry.
"I've been in costume for about 15 years and I've really worked every step up," says McGorty. "I worked as a costume PA first, which I think is so important for everyone from the start. Eventually, I joined the Costumers Union and then the Costume Designers Guild and worked with Lou Eyrich (Pose is Producer) as a designer assistant for various projects. Then when she started working closely with Brad (Pose is Writer) and he made her a producer, she reached out her hand to see if I wanted to work on it pose because at the time I was mainly working in New York. And of course it's the dream project. "
Pose is McGorty's dream project because she loves costume research, but also because she has had the opportunity to show how clothing can reveal our most authentic selves.
Exploring the style of the 80s and 90s
"For historical pieces, I think it's really important to first examine what happened during that time," explains McGorty. "If you do your research like we did poseI did everything in the 80s and 90s Fashion and all Condé Nast research. I am really happy to have a very close friend who is an archivist for Condé Nast and who has been really generous. "
"What comes up in everything is the need to be accepted for your authentic self. And this is a community of people who have lived it and are still living it."
"I also go to the library and see what was popular back then. So what were the films that were popular, or which books were popular at the time, which theater in New York was popular – everything that influences the fashion world I'm really interested to see what it's about. And I have stuff like (the New York Post& # 39; s) Page 6, which was huge in the 80s and 90s – everyone was photographed going to clubs, even restaurants, so that was a big part of it too. "
Advisory members of the ball community
"In high school, I saw Paris is on fireIt's an amazing documentary, "says McGorty." I grew up in a small town that was quite a distance from New York. I had dreams of coming to this city one day and seeing what was part of my trip. But I always enjoy talking about our incredible advisors pose who are a large part of the ball community and are part of the ball community across generations. There are people who were involved in this documentary, who were on this documentary and the advisors were on our show, which is huge. "
Generation members of the ball community, such as Twiggy Pucci Garçon, choreographed most of the ball scenes in the series. Leiomy Maldonado who is the judge Legendary and appeared in pose As Florida Ferocity, he is also one of the choreographers on the show. Leiomy and Twiggy also consulted on the show's costume design by briefing McGorty on the history of outfit categories that ball culture has seen from the '70s to the present day. McGorty's favorite categories were the bizarre category in season one and the Marie Antionette looks that Elektra (Dominique Jackson) wore in season two.
"The script says she wears a Marie Antoinette dress and has lackeys, Cubby and Lemar, and they're all pink," says McGorty. “From those descriptions we then designed and created, and we want to make sure it's something we've never seen on TV. The funniest part of our show is that the costume is so loud and capable of things doing that isn't usually seen on television and is usually not part of a story. That's a blessing. "
Combine the actors' journeys with the costumes
McGorty is delighted to design for such a visually stunning series, but she makes it clear that disguising the cast is as fulfilling as learning the actors' journeys. "It's really emotional in adjustment for us when we talk to the actors and what they see as the backstory, and they talk about their emotional connection to that or their emotional experience with the adjustment or this character. This is really here I get a lot of inspiration, "says McGorty.
"One of my favorite emotional moments in season two, episode four, was when we were shooting the ball scene with Candy. It's interesting because that moment should be so joyful and loving, and it was, but it was also almost more emotional than the actual funeral scene because it was such a celebration of a lifetime, there was that moment with Jason Rodriguez playing Lemar where we just stood and watched everyone get ready and be brought into rehearsals and we held hands and righteous Stand there and cry, not talk, just take it all in. And there are a lot of those moments, and throughout this show it's just … there's just so much honesty in what's captured that you can do it all feels time. "
Understand how ball culture is changing fashion
The actors of pose gave McGorty a deeper appreciation for the trans community and ballroom culture. "This is not a subculture of people – this is part of New York," she says. "This is a huge part of New York City and a part of many other cities, but this is one of the things that makes New York so great. It changed fashion and it changed film, and it did." Music, choreography and beauty standards have changed incredibly. It was just this incredible group of people who needed a safe place to be authentic and have the space to breathe and themselves. "
"I think what is consistent through this community is this authenticity of self. And it is shown by beauty, and it is shown by dancing, and it is shown by art. Other spaces that maybe more than" beauty "and" Fashion "has been recognized" and "art" and "music" don't have that authenticity, and this community does, "she says.
"I think that's what attracts people. I think that as a culture, even around the world, that's what we really want now. I think that's what shows up in everything, the need to accept your authentic self And this is a community of people who have lived and are still living it. They have been doing it for longer than most people even thought of. And I think that's really what I took from it, that means important. And that's why I try to live my life better. "